Know Your Fabrics

Here is a brief explanation of some of the terms you may come across when choosing your fabrics:

NATURAL FIBRES – COTTON, WOOL, LINEN, SILK, JUTE, ANGORA, CASHMERE, MOHAIR……

NATURAL BASED MAN-MADE FIBRES – RAYON, VISCOSE, BEMBERG, BREM SILK……

SYNTHETIC CHEMICAL BASED FIBRES – POLYESTER, NYLON, ACRYLIC, ACETATE………..

These fibres are spun into a variety of thicknesses, fibre lengths and colours and then woven or knitted in varying densities and weaves with a multitude of finishes:

APPLIQUÉ	small shaped pieces of fabric attached to main fabric for decoration
BATIK	traditional decorative dying process using wax resist to create patterns
BI-STRETCH	woven polyester fabric with a mechanical stretch in the weave for ease
BLACK OUT	rubberised curtain lining fabric (usually white or cream) to block daylight
BOILED WOOL	woven 100% wool fabric, boiled to give a creped/felted finish that will not fray
BURNOUT	creating pattern on a mixed fibre fabric using acid to burn away one of the fibres
CHIFFON	soft floating open weave matt fabric usually made from polyester or silk
CRAFT COTTON	close fine weave cotton designed for patchwork and intricate projects
CRÊPE	woven fabric with a highly twisted thread giving it a slightly rough but crease resistant finish
CRÊPE DE CHINE	very fine and closely woven smooth fabric for lightweight scarves and blouses
CRYSTAL ORGANZA	crisp open weave fabric of usually polyester or nylon with a slight sparkle
DECKCHAIR	narrow canvas strengthened across the weft with nylon to prevent stretching
DENIM	close heavy duty twill weave cotton usually dyed with indigo natural plant dye
DEVORE	silk mix velvet that has been burnt away in places with acid to form a pattern
DOUBLE KNIT	very fine one/one ribbed jersey giving strength, extra stretch and does not curl
DRILL	extra thick (usually cotton)weave fabric giving a diagonal appearance to the weave
ELASTANE	elasticised fibre added to other fabrics to give stretch (also lycra and spandex)
EMBROIDERED	any fabric with a design stitched onto it by hand or machine, may include beads
FELT	non woven meshed and rolled fabric made of wool/viscose or acrylic
FLEECE	thick polyester knit fabric with fluffy pile; anti-pil will not bobble
FLOCKED	decorative surface finish applied to any fabric giving a velvet like appearance
FOIL PRINT	metallic design or whole surface printed onto fabric – usually jersey
FUR	long or short pile woven into a knitted backing to create different fur effects
GABERDINE	closely woven twill weave fabric designed to resist water penetration
GEORGETTE	medium open weave fabric slightly heavier than chiffon but still translucent
GINGHAM	small even checked cotton or cotton mix fabric in monochrome colours with white
GROSGRAIN	ribbed effect woven fabric caused by weft being heavier than the warp
HABOTAI	very fine plain weave fabric of usually silk or polyester, good for linings
HERRINGBONE	close weave similar to a twill but with a zig zag effect used in ticking fabric
JERSEY	any fabric made with interlocking loops (as knitting) rather than woven
KNIT	as jersey
LACE	any loosely woven decorative fabric, can be embroidered tulle or woven directly to a design
LAWN	very fine quite loosely woven cotton fabric
LEATHERETTE	any leather effect fabric usually embossed PU or PVC on a fabric backing
LINING	any fabric used under another one to prevent static or transparency and improve hang
LYCRA	elasticised fibre added to other fabrics to give stretch (also elastane and spandex)
MATT SATIN	satin with a dull soft sheen
MICRODOT	very soft drapey metallic fabric caused be tiny metallic dots printed on a soft slinky jersey
MICROFIBRE	polyester fabric - very closely woven but with fine threads giving a soft smooth sheen
MOIRE	fine ribbed grosgrain fabric with a ‘watered’ pattern embossed onto the surface
MUSLIN	loosely woven cotton fabric for drapes and straining
NET	stiff non-woven fabric mesh for giving body to garments without weight
ORGANZA	very loosely woven fine fabric in polyester, nylon or silk with a surface sheen
PATCHWORK	joining small pieces of fabric in any design to create a larger piece
PLAIN WEAVE	simple weave where the weft threads alternate over and under the warp threads
POLYCOTTON	fabric containing both polyester and cotton to provide stability and comfort
PVC	polyester fabric coated with polyurethane to give sheen and a waterproof finish
QUILTING	where two or three layers of fabric are stitched together in a regular design
REVERSIBLE	any fabric where either side can be used on the outer side of the garment
RIPSTOP NYLON	nylon fabric with reinforced threads to give strength to a very light fabric
SATEEN	cotton fabric woven with long top threads to give a soft sheen
SELVEDGE	the bound edges along either side of the fabric when manufactured
SEQUINNED	any fabric with sequins sewn or glued to it in production
SHOWERPROOF	tightly woven fabric that resists water penetration can have a waterproof finish
SILK	natural fabric or yarn made from cocoons of a silkworm
SINGLE KNIT	simple knitted fabric where one side is smooth the other rough, inclined to curl
SPANDEX	elasticised fibre added to other fabrics to give stretch (also lycra and elastane)
SUEDETTE	usually a polyester fabric with an uneven short brushed finish designed to look like suede
TAFFETA	smooth, crisp fabric usually made of polyester or silk
TICKING	very closely woven cotton designed to resist feathers penetrating in pillows and cushions
TULLE	very fine net used for bridal veils and overlays
TWILL	thick (usually cotton) weave fabric giving a diagonal appearance to the weave
VELBOA	velvet finish fur usually with an animal print to give a faux fur appearance
VELOUR	velvet pile on a jersey backing, can be crushed or smooth
VELVET	straight pile closely woven fabric of cotton, rayon or silk
VOILE	loosely woven cotton or polyester that can be used for bridal wear or drapes
WARP	the vertical threads in any woven fabric
WEFT	the horizontal threads in any woven fabric
WOVEN CHECKS	when a checked fabric is created by weaving different coloured threads rather than a print